Gundam 'Real Touch' Paint markers. I first started using these paint markers when I first started to think about doing more then just snapping kits together. They were cheap and easy to use the normal Gundam markers as well as the real feel make very good starting points for those getting into the hobby. After I moved onto real paint and brushes I set the markers aside, not really giving them much creedance after using a brush, thinking they were just for kids attempts.
Recently I picked up my set of 'Real Touch' markers and decided to give them a try, to see what I could do with them for doing panel lining and what I found was that they worked amazingly for doing shadows, panel lines, and dirtying up a kit. I do not know what type of paint is used in them, if it is paint at all, or what it is, the text is in Japanese on the pen.
I do know that it doesn't interfere with any undercoating, regardless of paint type. Along with this when you finish using them you should topcoat them because they can be worn off by repetitive touching as you will see to give a demonstration I took a door that came with a miniart building kit as an accessory.
I gave it a base coat of SAC Bomber Tan, just to give the marker something to stick to, they do not do well on bare plastic they wipe off and will not stick, atleast not well Taking a Black 'Real Touch' marker I used the large tip its two sided, large and small tip and I traced the corners where the raised edges and lowered edges met. After that I took my finger yes, my finger! It takes most of the marker away except for a small bit that stains the paint as it is wiped off, and where your finger does not reach see shadows From there I did the rest of the door in the same manner.
Here are some examples of it in a real world setting. I used the markers for both the shadows in the ridges of Rorschach's pants and I used it to do EVERY panel line and shadow on this dio base, between the bricks which gave them a very nice dirty old coloring the stones on the ground, the cracks and gaps in the stucco, and the ridges and dents on the trashcan as well as the trash While my favorite online Gundam shop does not have the 'Real Touch' amazon does, so does Ebay, here is a link.
Here is my finished Rorschach Diorama, weathered completly with the bandai 'real touch' paint markers. Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account. Login or Register. COM Enter keywords or a search phrase below: Search. Bandai 'Real Touch' paint markers, a review views. Order Ascending Order Descending.
Layman's Gunpla Guide - Detailing Equipment
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, May 15, PM. Posted by smeagol the vile on Tuesday, June 1, PM. Member since February There are 5 existing Gunpla kit grades that you can buy in the market.
Some models are a little bit taller like Sinanju and Sazabi, while some HG models are somewhat shorter like Exia. First timers might get confused because they looks the same. With regards to detail, HG kits already look great when built straight from the box without any painting. They have a moderate amount of parts to assemble. Adding some panel lining will boost the detail and appearance of your High Grade kit as well as some minor painting in some areas.
The ability to pose models has been improved through the years. In older High Grade models during the 90s, the articulation HG kits were limited but satisfactory, but in recent years, Gunpla technology has advanced a lot and articulation of newer HG kits are superb to the point of being comparable or equal to that of Master Grade kits! Now if you want more detail, mechanics and an inner frame skeleton to show off, then Master Grade kits are for you! The kit box sizes vary depending on the number of assembly parts with the largest being from models like the MG Sazabi Ver.
The details of an MG kit is where it starts to get very interesting and amazing. The big difference between an HG and an MG kit is that MG kits have an inner frame or skeleton mechanic where you put on the armor pieces one by one just like a Samurai warrior would do when preparing for a battle.
One of the best parts of the MG kits is applying the dry rub decals! Decals, which are standard additions to MG kits, really make the model look realistic and add to the detail.
If you want crazy amount of decals to put on your model, then consider buying an MG Ver. Ka kits have. EW kits also include lots of decals since EW kits are also redesigned by Katoki.
MG kits requires more effort and work but the payoff is wonderful. Perfect Grade kits are the holy grail of Gunpla model kits! So, you must prepare your display area well.
In essence, they are Master Grade kits with so much detail they will blow your mind away.
The Gunpla Panel Lining: Gunpla’s Guide to Markers and Paints
They cost a lot of money, but as in all Gunpla model kits, they are worth it. Real Grade kits are roughly palm sized Perfect Grade kits. This is the latest model grade that Bandai has begun producing, and they are one of a kind! How cool is that? Articulation in RG kits is as best as it can get, armor color variation and separation is also at its finest in RG kits.
They are heavy on decals, too. Super Deformed kits are a whole new world of Gunpla. They are the most affordable kits available and the least amount of parts to assemble. The most popular series in this model grade are the Brave Battle Warriors and BB Senshi, which have their own anime series.
They are a great choice if you want to expose your children to the world of Gunpla since they are easy to assemble and cute in nature. No matter which model grade you choose to purchase, you will surely be amazed with the technology and ingenuity that has created them, and you will be proud to have built and assembled them yourselves.
Master Grade Now if you want more detail, mechanics and an inner frame skeleton to show off, then Master Grade kits are for you!Forgot your password? Well, I know this topic has come up before because I remember seeing it a long time ago. Anyways, I wanna add some detail to the panel lines on my Yamato Valks. So how good are the Gundam markers at making panel lines without smudging or anything?
I'm not a pro-customizer, last model kit I built was a partially completed VF-1 and VF-0, and that was many years ago. Hopefully I can see some examples that any of you might have done. I find a graphite pencil works much better for subtle panel lines, if you make a mistake it can be easily removed too. If you mess up with a Gundam marker One has a thicker tip.
The gray or black, can't remember lol one is GM This works kind of like a wash. Fill the panel line, and wipe off the excess with a non-abrasive cloth. The excess ink rubs right off clean if you do it within a minute. The other type of marker, and a representative one of the same color is GM It has an ultra-thin tip, and feels more like you're using a pen or pencil.
Both types rub off easily with a cloth if done fast, and can also be rubbed off via rubbing alcohol. G-markers are great for novice model building, but once you start to work with other types of paints they react somewhat strangely and inconsistently, so I would suggest graduating to some sort of enamel wash.
However, G-markers will probably work fine with toys with the error-correction methods I described above. Note: I don't take responsibility for wrecking yammies. Good luck. For panel lining a Yamato, I'd recommend using the GM21 since it's acrylic paint and tends to come out easier if you make a mistake.One of the many great things about Gunpla is that the more you obsess over the details, the more amazing your kit becomes. For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining.
And the great thing about panel lining is that once you know how to do it, you can easily apply it to anything you build! What kind of marker should you use? The most common are the Gundam Panel Lining Markers, which are readily available at hobby shops.
The fine tip markers are made specifically for panel lining. The Gundam Markers can be erased by rubbing a rubber eraser on any mistakes or excess ink, but make sure you do so right away after applying the panel lining, as Gundam Markers become harder to erase once the ink has dried. If you want an anime look for your Gunpla kit, the black Gundam Marker is your best choice. If you want a more realistic looking kit, then you can use the Gray Gundam Marker. It is also a good choice for light colored Gunpla pieces.
The brown Gundam Marker is best for simulating rust in some of your panel lines. It also goes well with red and yellow armour parts. But the downside is that you need to be careful in handling the parts that have already been panel lined, since you risk smudging the still wet ink.
For the COPIC Multi-Liner any rubber pencil eraser can be used; and since the plastic surface is smooth, wet ink can be easily removed by rubbing the pencil eraser along the pieces panel lining.
Another alternative worth mentioning are Micron Markers, which come in many different colors and tip sizes. Remember, this method can be applied to any panel lining you do. Applying panel lining using markers is actually pretty easy. Just run the marker through on the panel line, making sure the ink seeps through the groove. Then, use a rubber eraser to rub off any excess ink or mistakes. Let it dry overnight.
Tip: Rub the eraser perpendicular to the panel line to prevent smudging the ink along the panel line. Some people prefer the lines to be thick, you can forego the rubber eraser if you want your final lines to be thick.When first starting out with this hobby, the Fine Tip Gundam Marker was a nice and easy way to fill panel lines.
Instead, I found a new use for them: weathering.
All you have to do is to draw the scratch marks using the Fine Tip Gundam Marker. You can draw light strokes to simulate scratches, or you can dab the marker on the same area to simulate a larger peeled surface. When drawing the light strokes, try to keep a straight line, because scratch marks tend to be straight in real life.
Think about the moving parts of the mecha and imagine where physical contact would most likely occur. I like to put them on the edges, or corner parts.
You should end up with something like this:. Like the scratch effect, the placement of the smear is important. I tend to apply it near vents, openings or damaged parts on the mecha. Some recommendations and caveats: I feel that this effect works best coupled with other weathering effects, like an enamel wash. It would just break the illusion if a clean mecha suddenly has some scratch marks or grease smears.
Like any other weathering effect, moderation is the key. Not every surface or part should have scratch marks or smears. These two effects are mostly for lightly weathered mecha.
The Fine Tip Gundam Marker comes in black, grey and brown colors. I find the brown marker sometimes results in a reddish color, so take note. Feel free to experiment with other fine tip markers and other colors. They may yet leave their marks on your gunpla.
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Kusakusa Gunpla. You should end up with something like this: ii Smearing effects This simulates grease or grime that has leaked from some parts of the mecha.
Starting from the spot with the marker paint, use your finger to rub in a downwards motion. The outcome should be something like this: Like the scratch effect, the placement of the smear is important. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:.
Email required Address never made public. Name required. Post to Cancel. By continuing to use this website, you agree to their use.My first encounter with painting during my first few builds was using the gundam paint markers. They come in a nice thick marker pen for you to hold, they dry relatively fast and comes with quite an assortment of colors. They are very good for small areas such as V fins, tubes. Key point when it comes to gundam markers, shake and shake often. I swore my arm was stronger after this session.
Squeezing the paint marker down will help the paint to flow to the tip. Helps to give a nicer flow of the paint.
This is the one crucial step, waiting for the paint to dry. If its still wet and up paint another layer you will just pick up the previous layer with your marker. By paint in different directions it can help to create an even surface. Well the end result! Though still not that good. Might need a few more coats! I hope this guide will be useful I help those who use markers a lot. By the way the true expert with markers is Ngee Khiong which you guys can check out his blog.
He uses lots of gundam markers to great effect. Happy painting. Cos I got the markers and was like, what the fudge do I do with em? And they do work really nicely, specially on small areas.How to put panel line on Gunpla using Gundam Markers
Drying my spare Gelgoog head atm lol, Might matt topcoat it after to see what happens lol. Heh thanks! Just a word of caution on the topcoat. Spray in little mist rather than a thick coat. I actually melted my paint job from overspraying with the topcoat last time! I just paint it until it covers the whole surface, let it dry, then apply a second coat. And you are right. To each his own, just different paths to the same goal…I just want to get that damn spot covered!!!
I shook them the very first time I used them but not that time. Do they need to be shaken every use? Hi NB, markers like bottled paints will have to shaken every time before you use them. If not only the thinner will come out resulting in what you are experiencing! What you can do now is let the current layers dry and then paint over them once you throughly shake your markers.
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We will get through this together. Updated: June 28, Reader-Approved References. How many times has your drawing or writing been interrupted by the dry, abrasive scratch of a "dead" marker? If you can't seem to get a reasonable lifespan out of your markers, have no fear — it's usually possible to bring dead markers back to life temporarily, at least with one of several easy tricks. Whether you're using water-based coloring markers, dry-erase markers, or even heavy-duty permanent markers, the solution to dry tips is often as easy as simply soaking the markers for a few minutes.
To revive dried out water-based markers, soak the tips of the markers in a bowl of warm water for 5 minutes and then let them dry on a towel for 24 hours.
If you're trying to revive dry-erase markers, pull the tips out with pliers, turn the tips around, and then put them back in the markers. To revive permanent markers, soak the tips in rubbing alcohol for several minutes and then put the caps back on the markers.
Let the markers dry for hours with the caps on. To learn how to inject your markers with ink or water to revive them, keep reading the article! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Misty Walker Chase. Log in Facebook Loading Google Loading Civic Loading No account yet?
This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. Together, they cited information from 8 references. This article has overviews, and 45 testimonials from our readers, earning it our reader-approved status. Learn more Explore this Article Reviving Water-based Markers.
Reviving Dry-Erase Markers. Reviving Permanent Markers.